Playing the Deck: Limited

Toby Wachter

Limited play has received plenty of analysis over the years. Every aspect of sealed deck construction has been dissected and put into a precise formula. All the psychology of drafting has been broken down and looked over, down to the intricate details. These types of articles are invaluable, as they give the reader a better understanding of how to piece together a deck.
There is a distinct difference between the feel of playing a well-oiled constructed machine, and the creature intense play of Sealed Deck and Draft.

Ironically enough, with all that focus on deckbuilding, the most important issue of all often remains ignored: playing Limited. There is a distinct difference between the feel of playing a well-oiled constructed machine, and the creature intense play of Sealed Deck and Draft. A Standard deck often has a specific goal in mind, and every card in the deck contributes in some way to achieving that goal. In Limited, the goal is broken down to a basic level; bring your opponent to zero life points before they can do it to you.

The ability to play Limited well takes time to develop, as the format is incredibly skill intensive. However, there are certain guidelines a beginner can follow to be aware of the environment. Additionally, beginners tend to have some outlandish preconceived notions for Limited play that need to be addressed.
Resource Management is the Key

Do you attack?

Because your deck is made from a limited card pool, every card must be used to its fullest potential. For example, your deck will only have a specific amount of removal spells. Therefore, it is imperative that you use them optimally. Many beginners do not notice this difference between Limited and Constructed.

For example, in Constructed, a traditional Sligh deck would use most of the burn spells to pave the way for creatures. This was acceptable, as the deck contained more than enough removal to support such a strategy. This is not the case in Limited. You cannot afford to take out every creature that obstructs your attack. Instead, you need to play the game out patiently, removing your opponent's best creatures.

To put it in practical terms, let's say you are playing a three color sealed deck. You play a Kavu Aggressor, and your opponent responds with a Slimy Kavu. On the next turn, you have the option to remove it out of the way with an Agonizing Demise, and attack for three. While this sounds like a respectable plan, it is a bad idea. By wasting that removal spell on a creature that is not an immediate threat, you leave yourself vulnerable to better creatures in the late game.

To be fair, let's say you do use that Agonizing Demise on the Slimy Kavu, and you attack for three damage. On your opponent's next turn, they are likely to play another creature, which will probably be able to put up a fight with the Aggressor. The only advantage achieved was the three damage, but that cannot compensate for the inefficiently used removal spell.

	The best metaphor to use here is to compare it to Chess. In Chess, would you trade your Rook for a Pawn? Not very likely, unless it would manipulate the board position into your favor. By the same reasoning, let's say board position is even. Would you trade a Serpentine Kavu for a lesser creature such as a Prison Barricade (with kicker) in this situation? Of course not. Yet many make the mistake of charging head first, and making such trades. Let's say I attack with that Serpentine Kavu, and it is blocked by the Prison Barricade and an Ardent Soldier (with kicker). In this situation, my Kavu will die and I only have enough damage available for distribution to kill off one of those blockers. It doesn't matter which one I deal lethal damage to; the relevant issue is that I just traded my 4/4 Kavu for only a 2/4 or a 2/3 creature.
Establish Board Control

This is the means through which you will win a Limited game, and it is a very complex concept. To break this down to basic terms, let's go back to the standoff between my Kavu Aggressor and my opponent's Slimy Kavu. The board position is currently neutral, with both creatures staring down each other. My opponent will not attack with the Slimy Kavu because he will simply be attacked back for more damage, and I do not want to attack and trade my 3/2 for a 2/2.

The goal of both players is to break out of this stalemate somehow. At the most basic level, this can be done by simply playing a bigger creature than the Slimy Kavu that can survive combat with it. This sort of one-upsmanship continues back and forth between the players. You are trying to nullify your opponent's attack while allowing yourself to get through with creatures.

Beyond the level of simply the size of creatures, things become so much more complex. Other effects such as the tapping mechanism of the Trappers and Apprentices, damage prevention in Treefolk Healer, or a massive combat math variable such as Samite Archer all adjust the current board position. Additionally, evasion such as flying and the Fear ability on Duskwalker allows you to break through stalemates.

Theoretically, this is solid, but how do you apply board control to a real game? It's a complicated idea that takes years to master. Here are a few of the points to watch.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Math is hard

The concept is so basic, yet even the most experienced players make this mistake every now and then. Pay attention to what is in play, and what your opponent is capable of. If a Samite Archer is out, hold back your one toughness creatures until you can eliminate the Archer. Otherwise, you'll be throwing away cards for no good reason. If a Treefolk Healer is active, be aware of its impact on combat. Don't blindly charge into the fray, or block without thinking. A slight miscalculation in math, or missing a relevant aspect of the game state can cause you to lose.

This applies to what is in your opponent's hand as well. It's a good idea to glance over an Invasion list before you attend a Limited tournament. This way, you know what to expect from each color. More importantly, pay attention to rarity. The commons are what you truly need to play around - they show up the most often.

For example, if your opponent attacks with a Raging Kavu even though you have a Serpentine Kavu untapped, think twice before blocking. Can you afford to take three damage? If so, it may be worthwhile to let it through instead of risking your Serpentine dying thanks to Aggressive Urge or Wax making the Kavu bigger. Granted, it's hard to know if you're opponent is bluffing or not, and an entire article could be devoted to that topic. Just know that you have options, and consider cards your opponent may be playing. This becomes much easier after game one, when you have seen a good deal of your opponent's deck. Now you know what to expect, what your opponent's deck is capable of, and you will be better equipped to analyze situations in games two and three.
Don't Be Afraid to Take Damage
There is absolutely nothing wrong with taking a little damage...

I remember a conversation I had with Neutral Ground's Brian David-Marshall a few weeks back where he recalled a Limited game that a less experienced player was involved in. He said, "His Elves kept chump blocking and dying... they should have had dark glasses and suits on because they were literally like Secret Service men trying to protect their President. Even if I sent in a 2/2 they kept jumping in front of the creature screaming 'Noooo!' and dying."

For the record, there is absolutely nothing wrong with taking a little damage here and there. As long as you are answering back, and the creature is no immediate threat, it's fine to take a few shots on the chin. This is important to note, as chump blockers can hold off that big creature with support later.

As an example, let's say my opponent is attacking me with a Kavu Climber, and I have out Nomadic Elf. He now attacks with the Climber, and since I have a relatively comfortable life total I'll suck it up and take three damage. On my next turn, I have two options. I can either attack back for two, or play a second 2/2 or bigger creature and hold off the Climber.

This seems rather obvious, but think about the big picture. Let's say my Nomadic Elf decided to don the black suit and shades, and eat the three point bullet. This is bad as is, since I've given up a resource for nothing. I've lost a 2/2 at no expense to my opponent other than not being able to get through for three, which is a solid trade for him. Now when I play my second 2/2, I'm faced with the same problem. Just keep in mind that your life total is relative. Feel happy to take three damage now if it means you can stabilize and not take it later.
Be Analytical and Do Math

In a sense, Limited is almost like a constantly changing math problem. You always need to calculate how much damage your opponent is capable of dealing, how much damage you are capable of dealing, which creatures have evasion and which effects will manipulate combat. As if that's not enough, you need to consider the unknown variable of the cards your opponent holds.
2+2=5?

Since a Limited game revolves around controlling the board, every permanent played will often adjust that math problem. Of course, you should always concentrate when playing Magic, whether it's Constructed or Limited, but in this case there are specific things to keep in mind.

Before you contemplate attacking, consider every way your opponent might block. Then consider how this attack affects your defense on your opponent's turn, taking into account the blockers you will have available and how well they can handle the situation. This is easier said than done, as there are hidden variables to consider such as the removing of a creature or combat modifiers. It may sound cliché, but every action has a reaction. Before attacking, blocking, or making any tough decision in a game, consider every possible outcome. Some of it has to be guesswork, but the accuracy of such guesses is the mark of a great Magic player.

It is also incredibly important to be patient. Do not become frustrated in a stalemate and attack when it isn't beneficial. Your deck will hopefully have a few game breakers that can break through the standoff. In fact, keep these cards in mind when playing the deck. A great example of a card like this is Breaking Wave. It can be cast at the end of your opponent's turn as an Instant to tap down their army, and pave the way for your game winning attack.

Another example of a stalemate breaker is a mass removal spell such as Rout or Breath of Darigaaz. By playing around it appropriately, you can almost guarantee victory. Specifically, you hold back creatures and wait for your opponent to overextend with resources. Then, play the mass removal spell to clear the board. You were better prepared for this situation because you held back creatures. Now the board is cleared, and you can play out your hand while your opponent is low on resources to deal with your threats.
Experience is the Best Teacher

Like any skill, you get better with playing Limited as you gain more experience. Some Constructed decks are rather easy to play, as they are focused in what they want to accomplish. While you may prefer a specific type of Draft or Sealed Deck, it is rare that any two Limited decks you play will be exactly alike. Therefore, the decisions are not as obvious. Over time, you will get to make decisions in different situations, and find out first hand how they pan out. Through the course of each game, keep track of the mistakes you made that you were conscious of. By going over them later, you learn a little and hopefully won't make them a second time.